The inner corselette, one of the hallmarks of a couture gown, is considered a challenging project by many sewers. Detailed information on the process is hard to find and it's difficult to know where to start. Bodice Engineering: Mastering the Inner Corselette offers a solution by introducing the fundamental techniques to design and sew an inner corselette, giving you the confidence to create this structural foundation garment with professional results. Divided into two sections, you'll find step-by-step instructions to equip you with the know-how to build an inner corselette, followed by an…mehr
The inner corselette, one of the hallmarks of a couture gown, is considered a challenging project by many sewers. Detailed information on the process is hard to find and it's difficult to know where to start. Bodice Engineering: Mastering the Inner Corselette offers a solution by introducing the fundamental techniques to design and sew an inner corselette, giving you the confidence to create this structural foundation garment with professional results. Divided into two sections, you'll find step-by-step instructions to equip you with the know-how to build an inner corselette, followed by an in-depth look at the construction of six garments, each designed to teach particular skills and inspire your creativity. With over 360 photographs and illustrations, you'll find detailed information on every aspect of the process, including: Designing an inner corselette using a commercial pattern Refining the fit with a toile Choosing fabrics, notions and boning Constructing the corselette shell Adding shape and structure with boning Creating a strong and comfortable closure Joining the inner corselette and the garment Whether you are building an inner corselette for the first time or looking to refine your skills, this comprehensive guide is essential for any sewer wanting to create a beautifully engineered bodice.
Louise Johnson is a couture dressmaker, private sewing instructor and Australian Sewing Guild Industry Partner based in Perth, Australia. She has spent several years researching the history of inner corselettes, their construction methods, and the techniques used for integrating them into gowns.
Inhaltsangabe
Introduction PART 1: BUILDING AN INNER CORSELETTE 1. Creating Shape: A Brief History Corselettes and Dior's New Look Inner Corselette Designs Why Sew an Inner Corselette? 2. Selecting and Fitting the Pattern Measuring for a Corselette Selecting the Pattern Selecting the Pattern Size Understanding Ease Determining Pattern Ease Adjusting the Pattern Adding a Centre Front Dart 3. The Toile Constructing the Toile Fitting the Toile Assessing the Fit Adjusting the Toile Marking the Changes 4. Selecting Fabrics, Notions and Boning Fabrics Boning Selecting your Boning Tapes Fasteners 5. Construction Overview Prepare the Pattern Prepare the Fabric Elements General Construction Sequence 6. Creating the Shell Single, Double or Lined? Assembling a Lined Corselette Assembling a Double Layer Woven Corselette Assembling a Double Layer Bobbinet Corselette Pressing Sewing the Seams Finishing the Seam Allowances 7. Installing the Boning Boning Layout Preparing the Boning Installing the Boning 8. Edge Finishes Stabilising the Upper Edge Upper Edge Finishes Finishing the Lower Edge 9. Adding the Fastening Planning the Fastenings Corselette Fastenings Zippers Hooks and Eyes Concealing Hooks and Eyes Waist Stays Skirt and Petticoat Fastenings Petticoat Fastenings Skirt Fastenings 10. Joining the Inner Corselette and Garment Machine Sewn to the Garment Upper Edge Faced Method Enclosed Seam Method Hand Sewn to the Garment Body Tiered Edges Method Wrapped Edge Method Floating Edge Method PART 2: APPLYING THE TECHNIQUES 11. The Classic Mini Dress Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Inner Corselette Sew the Dress Join the Inner Corselette and Dress 12. The Lace Wedding Gown Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Inner Corselette Sew the Gown Join the Inner Corselette and Gown Making a French Tack 13. The Sweetheart Bare-Shouldered Jacket Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Corselette Sew the Jacket Join the Corselette and Jacket Complete the Jacket and Corselette 14. The Blush Tea-Length Gown Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Corselette and Petticoat Sew the Gown Join the Corselette and Gown 15. The Floral Evening Gown Create and Fit the Strapless Design Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Corselette Sew the Gown Join the Corselette and Gown Bust Enhancers 16. The Lilac Cocktail Gown Prepare the Patterns Modify the Patterns for the Gown Design Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Corselette Sew the Gown Join the Corselette and Dress Glossary Bibliography and Further Reading Resources Index
Introduction PART 1: BUILDING AN INNER CORSELETTE 1. Creating Shape: A Brief History Corselettes and Dior's New Look Inner Corselette Designs Why Sew an Inner Corselette? 2. Selecting and Fitting the Pattern Measuring for a Corselette Selecting the Pattern Selecting the Pattern Size Understanding Ease Determining Pattern Ease Adjusting the Pattern Adding a Centre Front Dart 3. The Toile Constructing the Toile Fitting the Toile Assessing the Fit Adjusting the Toile Marking the Changes 4. Selecting Fabrics, Notions and Boning Fabrics Boning Selecting your Boning Tapes Fasteners 5. Construction Overview Prepare the Pattern Prepare the Fabric Elements General Construction Sequence 6. Creating the Shell Single, Double or Lined? Assembling a Lined Corselette Assembling a Double Layer Woven Corselette Assembling a Double Layer Bobbinet Corselette Pressing Sewing the Seams Finishing the Seam Allowances 7. Installing the Boning Boning Layout Preparing the Boning Installing the Boning 8. Edge Finishes Stabilising the Upper Edge Upper Edge Finishes Finishing the Lower Edge 9. Adding the Fastening Planning the Fastenings Corselette Fastenings Zippers Hooks and Eyes Concealing Hooks and Eyes Waist Stays Skirt and Petticoat Fastenings Petticoat Fastenings Skirt Fastenings 10. Joining the Inner Corselette and Garment Machine Sewn to the Garment Upper Edge Faced Method Enclosed Seam Method Hand Sewn to the Garment Body Tiered Edges Method Wrapped Edge Method Floating Edge Method PART 2: APPLYING THE TECHNIQUES 11. The Classic Mini Dress Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Inner Corselette Sew the Dress Join the Inner Corselette and Dress 12. The Lace Wedding Gown Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Inner Corselette Sew the Gown Join the Inner Corselette and Gown Making a French Tack 13. The Sweetheart Bare-Shouldered Jacket Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Corselette Sew the Jacket Join the Corselette and Jacket Complete the Jacket and Corselette 14. The Blush Tea-Length Gown Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Corselette and Petticoat Sew the Gown Join the Corselette and Gown 15. The Floral Evening Gown Create and Fit the Strapless Design Prepare the Patterns Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Corselette Sew the Gown Join the Corselette and Gown Bust Enhancers 16. The Lilac Cocktail Gown Prepare the Patterns Modify the Patterns for the Gown Design Sew and Fit the Toiles Construct the Corselette Sew the Gown Join the Corselette and Dress Glossary Bibliography and Further Reading Resources Index
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