"This new edition of Fashion under Fascism expands the work of Eugenia Paulicelli's classic text - and includes updated material on gender and masculinity, the role of uniforms in standardizing individuality, race and colonial Italy, and the reception of 1930s cinema. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state, while demonstrating how these developments impacted the global dominance of Italian fashion today. Including interviews with major designers, it is an essential read for…mehr
"This new edition of Fashion under Fascism expands the work of Eugenia Paulicelli's classic text - and includes updated material on gender and masculinity, the role of uniforms in standardizing individuality, race and colonial Italy, and the reception of 1930s cinema. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state, while demonstrating how these developments impacted the global dominance of Italian fashion today. Including interviews with major designers, it is an essential read for all those interested in the history of fashion, politics, national identity and the culture of fascism"--
List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Preface: Fashion/Fascism: Odd bedfellows? Chapter 1: Introduction: Fashion/Fascism Fashion and historiography Methodology. Thinking Fashion, Rhythm and Spatializing Time Object and Intersectionalities Beyond the Black Shirt: Continuity and Change La moda è una cosa seria. Fashion is a Serious Business Gianna Manzini and her Approach to Fashion Structure and Sources Chapter 2 Fashion/Fascism: Why and How it Matters Origins of Italian Fashion? Fashion and totalitarianism Uniforms and Fashion under Fascism "Read my Pins" Chapter 3 Per una moda italiana: From the Interwar Years to Fascism Imagining an Italian Style: Between Modernity and Tradition Regional Dress and Fashion during Fascism Rosa Genoni: Fashion and Feminism in 1910s Performing Dress and Gender: Futurist Avant-gardes between Nationalism and Revolution From Balla to Thayhat: Transgressing Gender and Genres in the New Language of Dress The Fascist "New Woman." Lydia De Liguoro and the Project for an Italian Fashion "An Italian Fashion does not exist yet. We must create it" Chapter 4 The Language of Fashion: Narratives, Style and Women's Voices under Fascism The Discourse on Fashion under the Fascist Regime: the 1936 Italian Commentary Dictionary of Fashion by Cesare Meano Restless Voices. Femininity, Motherhood and Gender in Women's Writing in the Fashion Magazine Bellezza Dress, Style and the National Brand: Meano's Commentary on Nationalism Sport, Gender and Models of Femininity in Meano's Commentary Chapter 5 Cinemoda and Cinelandia under Fascism The Istituto LUCE Fashion Film: Education, Entertainment, Propaganda Fashion, Film and the Politics of the Regime From Hollywood to France and then to Italy: Alta Moda in Alessandro Blasetti's Contessa di Parma (1937) Grandi Magazzini, Department Stores and Standardization Dressing the Mass Market: I Grandi Magazzini (1939) by Mario Camerini Chapter 6 Nationalizing the Fashion Industry? The Intelligent Fibers: Between Innovation and Autarchy Fashion and Fascism for Export: Race, Colonialism, Empire. From Ethiopia to New York Italy at War. Autarchic Textiles and Clothing at the 1941 Venice Exhibition Looking Back: The National Conference on "Clothing and Autarchy." Turin, June 1940. Italian Fashion between Alta Moda and Confezione (Ready to Wear) Chapter 7 Conclusions Fashion and Fascism after Fascism Interrogating the Past. Fashion between History and Memory: Appendices: Interview with Micol Fontana by Eugenia Paulicelli (June 2000) Gianna Manzini, "Fashion is a Serious Business" Alba De Céspedes, "Eve and the Feathers" Illustrations from the fashion magazine Bellezza Notes Bibliography Index
List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Preface: Fashion/Fascism: Odd bedfellows? Chapter 1: Introduction: Fashion/Fascism Fashion and historiography Methodology. Thinking Fashion, Rhythm and Spatializing Time Object and Intersectionalities Beyond the Black Shirt: Continuity and Change La moda è una cosa seria. Fashion is a Serious Business Gianna Manzini and her Approach to Fashion Structure and Sources Chapter 2 Fashion/Fascism: Why and How it Matters Origins of Italian Fashion? Fashion and totalitarianism Uniforms and Fashion under Fascism "Read my Pins" Chapter 3 Per una moda italiana: From the Interwar Years to Fascism Imagining an Italian Style: Between Modernity and Tradition Regional Dress and Fashion during Fascism Rosa Genoni: Fashion and Feminism in 1910s Performing Dress and Gender: Futurist Avant-gardes between Nationalism and Revolution From Balla to Thayhat: Transgressing Gender and Genres in the New Language of Dress The Fascist "New Woman." Lydia De Liguoro and the Project for an Italian Fashion "An Italian Fashion does not exist yet. We must create it" Chapter 4 The Language of Fashion: Narratives, Style and Women's Voices under Fascism The Discourse on Fashion under the Fascist Regime: the 1936 Italian Commentary Dictionary of Fashion by Cesare Meano Restless Voices. Femininity, Motherhood and Gender in Women's Writing in the Fashion Magazine Bellezza Dress, Style and the National Brand: Meano's Commentary on Nationalism Sport, Gender and Models of Femininity in Meano's Commentary Chapter 5 Cinemoda and Cinelandia under Fascism The Istituto LUCE Fashion Film: Education, Entertainment, Propaganda Fashion, Film and the Politics of the Regime From Hollywood to France and then to Italy: Alta Moda in Alessandro Blasetti's Contessa di Parma (1937) Grandi Magazzini, Department Stores and Standardization Dressing the Mass Market: I Grandi Magazzini (1939) by Mario Camerini Chapter 6 Nationalizing the Fashion Industry? The Intelligent Fibers: Between Innovation and Autarchy Fashion and Fascism for Export: Race, Colonialism, Empire. From Ethiopia to New York Italy at War. Autarchic Textiles and Clothing at the 1941 Venice Exhibition Looking Back: The National Conference on "Clothing and Autarchy." Turin, June 1940. Italian Fashion between Alta Moda and Confezione (Ready to Wear) Chapter 7 Conclusions Fashion and Fascism after Fascism Interrogating the Past. Fashion between History and Memory: Appendices: Interview with Micol Fontana by Eugenia Paulicelli (June 2000) Gianna Manzini, "Fashion is a Serious Business" Alba De Céspedes, "Eve and the Feathers" Illustrations from the fashion magazine Bellezza Notes Bibliography Index
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