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The profile of the German Emperor Wilhelm II on the gates of the Palais du Rhin, Goethe's graffiti at the base of the Cathedral spire, and the memory of the lean-tos and the prostitutes who sold their charms in the Cathedral's sanctuary, the remains of a Roman tower hidden under a supermarket, a nature reserve concealed in the heart of an industrial area, a reminder of the dog baths, an exceptional Humanist library, and one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe …