The Science and Culture of Surfing
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This volume explores all aspects of surfing from the underlying physics of waves, the shape of wave breaks through to the development of surf culture and its influence on society. It explores the links between science and engineering with arts, sociology and economics, all through the lens of surfing. The book provides the one-stop location of knowledge on this global sport, bringing together the leading researchers in the field in a coherent framework. The book will appeal to undergraduate students and the general public, and will cater to readers from all backgrounds due to its transdisciplinary reach. …mehr

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Produktbeschreibung
This volume explores all aspects of surfing from the underlying physics of waves, the shape of wave breaks through to the development of surf culture and its influence on society. It explores the links between science and engineering with arts, sociology and economics, all through the lens of surfing. The book provides the one-stop location of knowledge on this global sport, bringing together the leading researchers in the field in a coherent framework. The book will appeal to undergraduate students and the general public, and will cater to readers from all backgrounds due to its transdisciplinary reach.
Autorenporträt
David is a world-leading Professor of Coastal Geomorphology based at the University of Melbourne, Australia. He grew up on the beaches of eastern Australia and was an active volunteer with Surf Life Saving Australia for over a decade conducting many rescues and preventative actions on the beaches of Sydney and Wollongong. He has received numerous awards including the 2020 Australian Museum Eureka Prize for Innovation in Citizen Science. His multidisciplinary approach to understanding the coast has led to regular media interviews for a global audience from print and digital media to mass-broadcast television.