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This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe.
This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe.
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Autorenporträt
Eugenia Paulicelli (Queens College and The Graduate Center, The City University of New York) is Professor of Italian, Comparative Literature and Women's Studies, and Founder and Director of the Concentration in Fashion Studies at the Graduate Center. Among her books are Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt (2004); The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity, Globalization (co-editor, 2009); Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy (2014); and Italian Style: Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age (2016). Veronica Manlow is an associate professor at Brooklyn College (The City University of New York) in the Koppelman School of Business in the Business Management Department. Her current research investigates luxury labor performed by artisans in ateliers and factories. She is also conducting research on luxury salespersons. Elizabeth Wissinger (Borough of Manhattan Community College and The Graduate Center, The City University of New York) is Professor of Sociology at BMCC, and Faculty Member in the Master of Arts and Liberal Studies, Fashion Studies Concentration at the Graduate Center. She has written, spoken, and published about fashion, technology, and embodiment, both in the USA and internationally.
Inhaltsangabe
Introduction Eugenia Paulicelli, Veronica Manlow, and Elizabeth Wissinger Part I: Fashion Theories and Histories 1. Worlds with No Fashion? The Birth of Eurocentrism Giorgio Riello 2. Aesthetics of Fashion Giovanni Matteucci 3. If Philosophy Were a Fashion Show: What Then? Nickolas Pappas 4. Contemporary Avant-Garde Fashion Charlene K. Lau 5. Economic Theories of Fashion Yoko Katagiri 6. A Posthuman Turn in Fashion Anneke Smelik Part II: Fashion Practices: From the Museum to the Workplace and Beyond 7. Affect, Haptics and Heterotopia in Fashion Curation Karen Van Godtsenhoven 8. The Future Generation of Fashion: How Higher Education Contextualizes Sustainability as a Key Design Tool Alana M. James 9. Reflecting on the Future of Fashion Design Education: New Education Models and Emerging Topics in Fashion Design Paola Bertola and Chiara Colombi 10. Abstract Pattern Cutting as a Design Tool: Accidental Cutting Versus Subtraction Cutting Methodologies Eva Iszoro Zak and Julian Roberts 11. Changing the World Not Just Our Wardrobes: A Sensibility For Sustainable Clothing, Care, and Quiet Activism Fiona Hackney, Katie Hill, Clare Saunders, and Joanie Willett 12. Fashion and Technology: Hand and Machine in (High-End) Fashion Design Barbara Faedda 13. Crafting Care Through Childhood: Education, Play, and Sustainable Ethical Fashion Melinda Byam 14. From Ideation to Inclusion: Investigation in Contemporary Childrenswear in the Global North Aude Le Guennec Part III: Fashion, Body, and Identity 15. Bullying and Barren Fashion: An Affective Perspective on the Psychopolitics of Dress Otto von Busch 16. Prosthetic Aura: Thinking About Scent in Fashion Debra Riley Parr 17. Tailoring the Impenetrable Body all Over Again: Digitality, Muscle, and the Men's Suit Diego Semerene 18. The Garment That Unifies and Differentiates: Anthropological Approaches and Regulatory Settings Chrysoula Kapartziani, Spyros Koulocheris, and Myrsini Pichou 19. College Students' Fashion Activism in the Age of Trump Charles J. Thompson 20. Fashion in the Trenches: How the Military Shapes the Fashion Industry Mattia Roveri 21. Violence and Fragmentation in Interwar Fashion and Femininity Lucy Moyse Ferreira Part IV: Fashion and Place 22. Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie as Fashion Icon: Addressing Nationalism and Feminism With Style Floriana Bernardi and Enrica Picarelli 23. Transformation of the "Made In..." Label: Countries as Brands and the Hidden Global Relations of Production Emilia Barna and Emese Dobos-Nagy 24. The Italian Look, or the Democratization of Fashion Emanuela Scarpellini 25. Hybrid Fashion Patterns: The Construction of a Contemporary Brazilian Fashion Image Sakir Özüdöru 26. Globalized Identities in the Fashion Trade Lynda Dematteo 27. The Labor of Fashion, Transnational Organizing, and the Global COVID-19 Pandemic Nafisa Tanjeem 28. From Rag Trade to Thrifting: The Cultural Economy of Secondhand Clothing Dicky Yangzom Part V: Fashion and Print Media: Literature and Magazines 29. Fashion Etiquette and Fashion Ethics: Rules and Values in Italian Turn-of-the-Century Etiquette Books Annick Paternoster 30. Fashion and the English Novel Royce Mahawatte 31. Adele Kudish "Selling Themselves Piecemeal:" The Economics of Beauty and Power in four Representative Texts Adele Kudish 32. Fashion in Literature Based on Margaret Thatcher's The Autobiography (1995) Katarzyna Kociöek 33. Lovers, Legends, and Looms: Persian Narrative Poetry Depicted on Figural Silks in the Early Modern Period Nazanin Hedayat Munroe 34. The Morality of the Middlebrow: Fashion in American and Canadian Mass-market Women's Magazines of the 1920s Rachael Alexander 35. Fashion Consumption and Public Discourse: Mechanisms of Sales Obstruction Natalia Berger and Skylla Blake Part VI: Fashion and Film 36. Fashion in Cinema: Reframing the Field Marketa Uhlirova 37. From Stardom to Celebrity Culture and Beyond: Fashion, Costume, Cinema, and Change Pamela Church Gibson 38. The Master Narrative: Authorship, Fame, and Failure in the Designer Fashion Film Nick Rees-Roberts 39. Fashion and Gender in Superhero Comics and Films Jonathan S. Marion and James Scanlan 40. Sartorial Politics from Street to Screen: Female Leaders in India and Bollywood Design Deepsikha Chatterjee Part VII: Branding, Media, and Television 41. Mediatization of Fashion: An Approach from the Perspective of Digital Media Logic Marta Torregrosa Puig, Javier Serrano-Puche, and Cristina Sánchez-Blanco 42. Jana Melkumova-Reynolds From Bag to "It Bag": A Case Study of Consecration in the Field of Fashion Jana Melkumova-Reynolds 43. Industrialized Inspiration: Reassessing the Osmosis Between Fashion and Art Through the Work of Trend Forecasters Marco Pedroni 44. Audience for Fashion: Digital Touch Points, Brand Circulation, and the New Consumer Experience Romana Andò 45. Media Convergence, Fashion, and TV Series Antonella Mascio 46. Branding Daily Life: Fashion Influencers as Market Actors in the Social Media Economy Arturo Arriagada Part VIIIL The Future of Fashion and its Challenges 47. The Future of Luxury Fashion: Insights from Industry Experts Veronica Manlow 48. Fashion's Future in Biodesign Elizabeth Wissinger 49. Fashion and Race: Translating Cultures in Dapper Dan and Gucci Eugenia Paulicelli
Introduction Eugenia Paulicelli, Veronica Manlow, and Elizabeth Wissinger Part I: Fashion Theories and Histories 1. Worlds with No Fashion? The Birth of Eurocentrism Giorgio Riello 2. Aesthetics of Fashion Giovanni Matteucci 3. If Philosophy Were a Fashion Show: What Then? Nickolas Pappas 4. Contemporary Avant-Garde Fashion Charlene K. Lau 5. Economic Theories of Fashion Yoko Katagiri 6. A Posthuman Turn in Fashion Anneke Smelik Part II: Fashion Practices: From the Museum to the Workplace and Beyond 7. Affect, Haptics and Heterotopia in Fashion Curation Karen Van Godtsenhoven 8. The Future Generation of Fashion: How Higher Education Contextualizes Sustainability as a Key Design Tool Alana M. James 9. Reflecting on the Future of Fashion Design Education: New Education Models and Emerging Topics in Fashion Design Paola Bertola and Chiara Colombi 10. Abstract Pattern Cutting as a Design Tool: Accidental Cutting Versus Subtraction Cutting Methodologies Eva Iszoro Zak and Julian Roberts 11. Changing the World Not Just Our Wardrobes: A Sensibility For Sustainable Clothing, Care, and Quiet Activism Fiona Hackney, Katie Hill, Clare Saunders, and Joanie Willett 12. Fashion and Technology: Hand and Machine in (High-End) Fashion Design Barbara Faedda 13. Crafting Care Through Childhood: Education, Play, and Sustainable Ethical Fashion Melinda Byam 14. From Ideation to Inclusion: Investigation in Contemporary Childrenswear in the Global North Aude Le Guennec Part III: Fashion, Body, and Identity 15. Bullying and Barren Fashion: An Affective Perspective on the Psychopolitics of Dress Otto von Busch 16. Prosthetic Aura: Thinking About Scent in Fashion Debra Riley Parr 17. Tailoring the Impenetrable Body all Over Again: Digitality, Muscle, and the Men's Suit Diego Semerene 18. The Garment That Unifies and Differentiates: Anthropological Approaches and Regulatory Settings Chrysoula Kapartziani, Spyros Koulocheris, and Myrsini Pichou 19. College Students' Fashion Activism in the Age of Trump Charles J. Thompson 20. Fashion in the Trenches: How the Military Shapes the Fashion Industry Mattia Roveri 21. Violence and Fragmentation in Interwar Fashion and Femininity Lucy Moyse Ferreira Part IV: Fashion and Place 22. Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie as Fashion Icon: Addressing Nationalism and Feminism With Style Floriana Bernardi and Enrica Picarelli 23. Transformation of the "Made In..." Label: Countries as Brands and the Hidden Global Relations of Production Emilia Barna and Emese Dobos-Nagy 24. The Italian Look, or the Democratization of Fashion Emanuela Scarpellini 25. Hybrid Fashion Patterns: The Construction of a Contemporary Brazilian Fashion Image Sakir Özüdöru 26. Globalized Identities in the Fashion Trade Lynda Dematteo 27. The Labor of Fashion, Transnational Organizing, and the Global COVID-19 Pandemic Nafisa Tanjeem 28. From Rag Trade to Thrifting: The Cultural Economy of Secondhand Clothing Dicky Yangzom Part V: Fashion and Print Media: Literature and Magazines 29. Fashion Etiquette and Fashion Ethics: Rules and Values in Italian Turn-of-the-Century Etiquette Books Annick Paternoster 30. Fashion and the English Novel Royce Mahawatte 31. Adele Kudish "Selling Themselves Piecemeal:" The Economics of Beauty and Power in four Representative Texts Adele Kudish 32. Fashion in Literature Based on Margaret Thatcher's The Autobiography (1995) Katarzyna Kociöek 33. Lovers, Legends, and Looms: Persian Narrative Poetry Depicted on Figural Silks in the Early Modern Period Nazanin Hedayat Munroe 34. The Morality of the Middlebrow: Fashion in American and Canadian Mass-market Women's Magazines of the 1920s Rachael Alexander 35. Fashion Consumption and Public Discourse: Mechanisms of Sales Obstruction Natalia Berger and Skylla Blake Part VI: Fashion and Film 36. Fashion in Cinema: Reframing the Field Marketa Uhlirova 37. From Stardom to Celebrity Culture and Beyond: Fashion, Costume, Cinema, and Change Pamela Church Gibson 38. The Master Narrative: Authorship, Fame, and Failure in the Designer Fashion Film Nick Rees-Roberts 39. Fashion and Gender in Superhero Comics and Films Jonathan S. Marion and James Scanlan 40. Sartorial Politics from Street to Screen: Female Leaders in India and Bollywood Design Deepsikha Chatterjee Part VII: Branding, Media, and Television 41. Mediatization of Fashion: An Approach from the Perspective of Digital Media Logic Marta Torregrosa Puig, Javier Serrano-Puche, and Cristina Sánchez-Blanco 42. Jana Melkumova-Reynolds From Bag to "It Bag": A Case Study of Consecration in the Field of Fashion Jana Melkumova-Reynolds 43. Industrialized Inspiration: Reassessing the Osmosis Between Fashion and Art Through the Work of Trend Forecasters Marco Pedroni 44. Audience for Fashion: Digital Touch Points, Brand Circulation, and the New Consumer Experience Romana Andò 45. Media Convergence, Fashion, and TV Series Antonella Mascio 46. Branding Daily Life: Fashion Influencers as Market Actors in the Social Media Economy Arturo Arriagada Part VIIIL The Future of Fashion and its Challenges 47. The Future of Luxury Fashion: Insights from Industry Experts Veronica Manlow 48. Fashion's Future in Biodesign Elizabeth Wissinger 49. Fashion and Race: Translating Cultures in Dapper Dan and Gucci Eugenia Paulicelli
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